Fish and chips is as Australian as it gets, and the homemade version is genuinely superior to the shop. The secret is the batter: cold sparkling water or beer, kept cold, whisked until just combined with the flour — lumpy is fine, lumpy is correct. Smooth batter is overworked batter and it won't be as light and crisp.
The oil temperature is everything. Too cool and the batter absorbs oil and goes soggy. Too hot and the outside burns before the fish cooks through. Aim for 180°C, which you can test with a thermometer or by dropping a small bit of batter in — it should sizzle immediately and rise to the surface.
I use flathead, barramundi or cod fillets, depending on what looks freshest at the fishmonger. Cut them into portions small enough to fit in the pan without crowding. Don't skip the chips — oven chips are fine if you want to simplify, but proper double-cooked chips alongside proper fried fish is one of life's great pleasures.
"Lumpy batter is correct. Smooth batter has been overworked. Trust the lumps."
Ingredients
- 600g firm white fish fillets (flathead, barramundi or cod)
- 1 cup plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- 1 tsp baking powder
- 300ml ice-cold sparkling water or beer
- 1 tsp salt
- 800g floury potatoes (Désirée or Sebago)
- Neutral oil for deep frying (about 1 litre)
- Salt, malt vinegar, lemon and tartare sauce to serve
Method
Step 1
Make the chips: peel and cut potatoes into thick chips. Soak in cold water for 30 minutes, drain and dry well. Heat oil to 160°C and fry the chips for 8 minutes until cooked but not coloured. Drain. (This is the first fry — second fry happens later.)
Step 2
Make the batter: whisk flour, baking powder and salt briefly. Add the cold sparkling water and whisk until just combined — lumps are fine. Keep cold.
Step 3
Pat the fish dry. Dust lightly with plain flour, shaking off excess. Heat oil to 180°C. Dip fish in batter, letting excess drip off, and lower carefully into the oil. Fry for 4–5 minutes per side until golden and cooked through. Drain on paper towel and season with salt.
Step 4
While the fish rests, return chips to the 180°C oil and fry for 3–4 minutes until golden and crisp. Drain, season immediately with salt. Serve everything together with lemon, vinegar and tartare sauce.
